Worth the Drive? Roberto’s River Road Restaurant

River Road (3 miles south of Gardere Ln, or 1/4 mile north of Bayou Paul Ln)
Sunshine, LA 70780
225.642.5999
http://www.robertosrestaurant.net

by: Chad

So you might be asking, with all the restaurants in the Baton Rouge area, why would one venture out on these deadly Louisiana highways way out to the far reaches of the parish to find dinner?  After you navigate your way to St. Gabriel, you carefully watch the street signs to direct you to the river road, and once there, you arrive in the tiny town of Sunshine, home of Roberto’s River Road Restaurant.  Upon parking my car in the gravel parking lot and looking over at the building, I silently asked myself again if this was a good idea.

The 150+ year old building the restaurant resides in what was once a general store, and still has that type of look to it.  I remember thinking, “I’ve heard this place has great food, but is it going to be as old fashioned as its décor?”  That thought would quickly disappear once the food came into play.

Looking at Roberto’s from the outside then walking in and finding the type of dishes served inside was kind of like opening the door to a truck stop bathroom and finding the Magic Kingdom.  As simple as the place itself is, the food is the polar opposite.  It is a very unassuming restaurant that is in no way full of itself.  The staff at Roberto’s priorities definitely lie within the kitchen.  Don’t get me wrong, this was no dive and the ambiance was fine, but the food was so unexpectedly refined that I was pretty amazed.

We started out with the eggplant crab cakes.  These are an interesting twist on the traditional crab cakes, combining the slight bitterness of the eggplant with the sweetness of crab.  They were served on a beurre blanc sauce and topped with a very tasty dill hollandaise.

I had the soup next, and my wife had a salad.  The soup was a cream of brie with crab, and was excellent.  A rich, creamy textured soup with sweet pieces of jumbo lump crabmeat swimming around.  It didn’t suffer from the oiliness or chalkiness that I have sometimes found with other cream based soups.  My wife described the salad as quite good, with fresh greens and a very tasty honey mustard dressing that had a nice sweetness to it.

For the entrée, my wife was interested in the pork tenderloin, however it was not available.  Her second choice was the beef tenderloin filet.  I too chose the filet, but in the special offered that night.  My entrée was one of the most exciting, flavorful, and well prepared dishes I have eaten anywhere, not just in the Baton Rouge area.

The special was a grilled beef filet, set atop a Habanero grit cake, topped with jumbo lump crabmeat and a light blue cheese demi glace.  The main element of the dish, the filet, was cooked perfectly, just as ordered, medium-rare.  The grit cake was crispy on the outside with the creamy grits inside, and had a nice bit of kick from the Habanero.  The jumbo lump crab was a pleasant surprise in that the portion was quite generous.  There was actually so much crab that it couldn’t all be contained atop the filet.  The crab had a nice sweetness to it, which balanced well with the heat of the crab cake, and the tanginess of the blue cheese demi glace.

The combination of flavors and textures were amazing.  This dish was elegant and well prepared – an excellent example of combining classic ingredients in a modern way.

For desserts, we tried the two daily specials.  Both had to be ordered to go and taken home to eat later, but were definitely worth ordering.  My wife had the blueberry bread pudding.  Rather than it being a plain bread pudding served with the addition of blueberries, it was made from blueberry flavored bread, so that flavor was present throughout.  It was very well done and lived up to the expectations that most would have of bread pudding in this area.  The chocolate cake was not quite as exotic, but was good, featuring candied pecans as its own little signature touch.

So is Roberto’s worth the drive?  Absolutely.  Take a break from the traffic nightmares of Sherwood Forest, Bluebonnet, and Siegen, and take a road trip to the country which will send your taste buds to another world.

(Note:  Urbanspoon reports it to be located in Plaquemine for some reason, but that is not correct, it is on the east bank of the river in Sunshine, LA.)

Roberto's

Blueberry Bread Pudding

Roberto’s Grilled Steak Special

 

 

Stroube’s Chophouse – Best New Restaurant in Baton Rouge

107 Third St. (downtown)
Corner of Third and North Blvd.
225-448-2830
http://www.stroubeschophouse.com

By: Chad

Now, as I’m sure you astute readers have noticed, another restaurant in town was deemed by my fellow contributor as best in the city, but with time comes change, and I’m confident in saying that for me, Stroube’s currently holds the title as the best BR has to offer.

Chef Justin Ferguson is good.  Not just good as you might describe a good movie or good book, but good as in the way you talk about an athlete or actor.  He is clearly meant to do what he’s doing, and it shows vividly in his food.  He’s an avid believer in scratch cooking, baking his own bread, making his own pancetta from pork belly, and even churning his own butter.  It is this kind of dedication to cuisine as an art form that truly sets Stroube’s apart in the Baton Rouge dining scene.

I had previously visited the restaurant several times for lunch, and sampled a few items from the impressive lunch menu.  The wild mushroom pizza was excellent, a delicious mix of sautéed mushrooms, pancetta, and mozzarella topped with a drizzling of truffle oil.  The Wagyu burger was ridiculously good, undeserving of being lumped into a food category that shares it name with fast food chains.  Served with Yukon gold potatoes, it redefines what a burger and fries should be.

For my ‘official’ visit, my wife decided that this was her choice for a birthday dinner.  Seeing as it was a celebration, we didn’t skimp.  We started out with drinks; she opted for the Pineapple Martini, while I tried the Vanilla Manhattan.  Both are made from infusions that they create, something rather popular in bars these days.  Both were very good, and given the fact that they were made with premium liquors, $5 wasn’t too steep a price.  We tried the baked brie as an appetizer, and it was delicious.  The brie is topped with a sweet butter and honey based sauce, golden raisins, and roasted pecans; and comes served with slices of house made bread.

We then split the blue cheese wedge salad.  A wedge of iceberg lettuce is topped with a creamy blue cheese dressing and bits of pancetta, with a few cherry tomatoes garnishing the plate.  This was also excellent, and that should register with some gravity, given the fact that I’m basically the polar opposite of a vegetarian and rarely eat salads.  The only slight complaint with it was the lack of pancetta bits.  They added such a great element to the salad that it was almost torturous to see only a few.

For entrees, she got the herb marinated chicken breast, served with risotto and sautéed greens.  This was a good dish, but nothing out of the ordinary.  The chicken was cooked perfectly, and the risotto was tasty, although lacking a bit of exotic flair, expected due to the other items on the menu.  I ordered the nine ounce filet, and it was easily one of the best steaks I have ever eaten.  Now that should be framed within some context.  One could make such a claim, and if the extent of their steak consumption has been Ryan’s steakhouses, then it would be laughable.  However, as evident in my size, I have had many fine steaks at many fine restaurants, and this one was truly remarkable.

All of Stroube’s meat comes from Allen Brothers, a company which prides themselves on the quality of their meat.  The steaks are wet-aged, hand selected and hand cut from only the finest of USDA prime meats.  The filet is priced at $29 without any accompanying sides, but for the quality and flavor experienced, is worth every penny.  It had a buttery taste without a sense of greasiness, and really needed no topping, although I was unable to resist the gorgonzola demi glace, one of several sauces offered.  Besides being unneeded, it was also below expectations, containing a trace amount of the cheese and a watery consistency.  Don’t be lured by the sauces, you won’t need them.

We also got the fresh corn and sage parmesan grits, which were awesome.  Being fans of a very similar item at another restaurant, it was impossible not to draw comparisons, but these truly stood out as superior, if for nothing else than the fact that they are freshly stone ground.  They had an excellent texture and flavor often sorely lacking in the afterthoughts of steakhouse side dishes.

Perhaps the biggest overall disappointment of the meal was the dessert.  While both were done very well, they lacked the same thread of innovativeness present in the rest of the meal.  The cheesecake was simple and basic, and the flourless chocolate cake is a common offering found nearly everywhere these days.  On a previous visit, I had sampled another dessert which seemed more in line with my expectations, however tonight it was not offered.

Service and décor were as to be expected in such a high level restaurant, both impressive and without any negative aspects.  Stroube’s is a welcome addition to the downtown scene, offering something that has truly been absent from the atmosphere trying to be established there.  A world class restaurant with great food providing a great experience.

Doe’s Eat Place

By: Wesley

3723 Government Street
Baton Rouge, LA 70806
(225) 387-5331

http://www.doeseatplace.com/

This review must be prefaced with this warning: CuisineRouge makes a point of avoiding “chain” restaurants for good reason – most chains are devoid of soul, creativity, and real talent in the kitchen. There, I said it. I’m not trying to hate on them, but a locally owned, original restaurant symbolizes someone’s ambitions and life savings, not the clever franchising decisions of a real-estate investment consortium. We do what we can do to shine the light on these places, as they often are overlooked.

Doe’s is an interesting compromise for us. It started out fairly close to home, over in Greenville, Mississippi, and over the years, Doe’s has grown to have two family-owned locations, and twelve franchise locations. Since the family-owned locations are not within a 30-minute drive of Baton Rouge, we visited the franchised location on Government Street.

So enough bull, where’s the beef? My two amigos and I were craving some steak, and Doe’s Eat Place sounded like a fun place to pig out. This is what I learned: Doe’s is probably the most honest and least pretentious steak restaurant that I’ve ever dined at. There is no tacky theme, vegan waif offerings, or chicken served at this establishment (although I hear the menus do vary location to location).

I am hesitant to call this restaurant “manly,” as I don’t want to give any woman hesitation to eating at Doe’s – perhaps “simple,” “elemental,” or “pure” are better adjectives to use. The menu is the very essence of “less is more” as there are only three main items: steak, tamales, and shrimp. Now hold on – there is a bit more to it, as there are 4 types of steak to choose from: sirloin, ribeye, filet mignon, and t-bone/porterhouse.

We each ordered a glass of tea, and in addition one of my fellow diners ordered a glass of Russian Standard vodka, which I hear is hard to find in most restaurants. Kudos to Doe’s for having fancy liquor! Per him, this vodka is the cleanest, best tasting vodka on the market, made by the people that invented the stuff. A must try for those who are hung up on the trendy goose named French offering, ordered blindly by those looking to be cool. Drinking French vodka is kinda like eating Chinese food in downtown Tijuana, but I digress.

The tamales….these aren’t what you get at the Mexican joint down the street. These are “Delta style,” which essentially means they aren’t bland and wrapped in a corn husk. “Delta style” comes in a paper wrapper, and instead of canned chili, you get the scraps from the beef the steaks are cut from ground up coarsely and prepared into a delicious and tangy stew. You simply unwrap the tamale, spoon on some chili, and then enjoy. The beef, corn, and chili come together in a most satisfying way. The three of us split a half-dozen as an appetizer, but if the possibility of steak wasn’t looming, I’d gladly settle for a dozen as my meal, and not feel slighted in the least.

Now about the beef. One thing that is positively refreshing is the amount of respect that Doe’s pays to the Bos Primigenius (That’s what scientists calls cows). Doe’s refuses to ruin the beef by burning it (also known as “well done,” the greatest culinary oxymoron). Since we all were shooting for a light meal, we each ordered the smallest steak on the menu, the pound and a half porterhouse. That might blow your mind, and that’s okay. The steaks are offered in roughly one pound increments, with the intention that you order a big one to share with your partner, with some of the cuts even offering two different temperatures per order.

Ordering the steak was easy: pick your cut, your poundage, and your doneness. After that, another tantalizing choice: fries or boiled potatoes. One amigo picked fries, two picked the boiled potatoes. The waiter warned us the potatoes were bland, prepared only by placing them into unsalted boiling water with butter, and the fries were the better pick.

Every steak dinner is preceded with a marinated salad, consisting of iceberg lettuce and cherry tomatoes soaked in a lemon juice, garlic, and olive oil infusion. The salad tasted good, a little sour/spicy, but the wilted lettuce was a bit of a turn off and I wish it had been colder. The wooden bowls were a rustic touch, and there is an interesting story about the salad, invented by Aunt Florence, that you can find on Doe’s website. True carnivores may not care about the salad, but it is a Doe’s institution.

On to the steaks – yes, the whole point of going to a steak restaurant is the big slab of sizzling beef, untainted by ketchup, A1, Heinz 57, pineapple glaze, or peppercorn mushroom congealed disappointment. Sauces like these are the refuge of weaker cuts of beef, and Doe’s doesn’t offer them because they don’t need them. The ketchup on the tables is only for the fries! Our porterhouses arrived at the table, cooked perfectly. Along with the sizzling spread came a basket of curious brown biscuits. These “drop biscuits” consist of dough, deep fried, and served with butter and honey. Think country-style beignets and you are close enough.

The next part is little hazy. Once we started eating the steaks, the witty banter gave way to the tinkling sounds of cutlery, and other less delicate sounds. Watching two other men eat steak isn’t pretty, so it’s best to focus on what’s on your plate. I had ordered the boiled potatoes to accompany my steak, against the recommendation of the waiter, and they were just that – boiled potatoes, bland and unremarkable. Thankfully, there were enough French fries to go around, and they were cut and seasoned perfectly.

Our waiter, who was something of a likeable smart-ass, encouraged us to pick up the bone and get the good parts if we couldn’t manage with fork and knife alone. We happily obliged. I don’t know how else to tell you – the steak was perfect, tender, well seasoned (with salt and pepper alone, as far as I can tell). We were offered dessert, but passed due to a complete lack of room to hold it.

So what else is there to say about Doe’s Eat Place? Well, it’s a great place to get a perfect steak, it’s got a fun and casual atmosphere, and it’s the absolute worst place to bring your Hindu and vegetarian friends. My bill, which included two tamales (1/3 of the half dozen), iced tea, and the one and a half pound porterhouse was $44. Not bad at all! I’m really looking forward to eating here again. Go Eat at Doe’s!